How to get Chrome's old UI back?

Another Chrome questions since they just insist on updating things to be terrible and ugly. I always use chrome in Incognito mode so I only noticed it when opening my downloads page today. The entire look of the page has changed to be pure white and the blue bar that should be at the top is just gone. Looking at my Settings page it has also changed to the same blinding white with all the blue missing. How do I switch it back to the old look so I don't get stabbed in the retinas every time I open my Downloads or Settings? I did this once already with flags. but I'm not sure which ones were responsible. Though I turned on both "unexpire M98" and "unexpire M99" flags it didn't seem to give me any more flags to change. How do I switch it back now, preferably without having to switch back to an older version of Chrome?

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